Pizzakaya's Derek Thomas on Red Walls, California Pizzas, and what could be the Universe's Most Sought-After Carrot Cake.

Pizzakaya: The Art of California Pizza in Tokyo, since 1996

Pizzakaya is a must for anyone looking for a true California-style pizza experience in Tokyo. Located in the city's Nishiazabu neighborhood, between Hiroo and Roppongi, on the second floor of an unassuming building, Derek Thomas, an American who identifies as Nevadan or Californian depending on the situation, has turned his passion for baking into a thriving haven for California pizzas lovers from all over the world.

Interview with Derek Thomas

CEO/President of Pizzakaya in Tokyo

In our first issue of Meet the Makers, Livio met with Derek to discuss the inner workings of Pizzakaya, its success, the creative spirit, and what the future holds.

Livio (L): Derek, thanks for having me here today. This is quite the spot. Can you briefly introduce yourself and Pizzakaya?

Derek Thomas (D): Sure thing. I'm Derek Thomas. I took over Pizzakaya back in the late '90s after managing for the original owner. In between that, I was learning all I could about baking and pastry at the Culinary Institute of America. Been here with Pizzakaya for 28 years now. Did a stint for some big names like Starbucks, IKEA, and Disney back in the day, doing some food-related consulting and R&D. Fun fact: I came up with some cake recipes for Starbucks too, so there's my small claim to fame. But here, it's our awesome California-style pizzas and craft beer selection that's the talk of the town. And not to forget our legendary carrot cake of course.

L: Your pizzas are awesome indeed. Working close by gives me a good excuse to come here when I am at the office.

D: Yeah, we are talking the best pizzas in Tokyo after all, maybe even in all of Japan. And we've embraced gluten-free and vegan options since way before it was cool (laughs). As we speak we even develop our own vegan cheese that doesn't taste like cardboard like the ones you get from the supermarket. You can go ahead and publish that if you like! (laughs again)

L: Your word is my command, I won't cut that bit out (laughs). But back to the pizzas, do tell me what makes a California Pizza a California Pizza?

D: Ah, California pizza, that's a style where the rulebook gets tossed out the window. It's all about innovation and not being afraid of trying out new things. You see, traditional New York pizza, that's your classic big slice with cheese or pepperoni, right? Anything beyond that, and you're committing a pizza sin in some folks' eyes. But California pizza? It's like the melting pot of pizzas. We throw on anything that tastes good—veggies, a variety of meats, unconventional toppings, you name it.

L: Got it. So what makes your California-style pizzas so special here at Pizzakaya?

D: Our pizzas are a hit because we're not afraid to mix it up. Sure, we've got the classics like our top-selling pepperoni, but we also like to get wild. Take our „Reaper“, for example. It's loaded with some seriously spicy stuff, including Carolina reapers grown for us by one of the only Americans doing this sort of thing here in Japan. We've got something here for everyone.

L: I've heard about that one, yeah. My Sri Lankan friend, who claims to be an expert in anything spicy, couldn't even finish one slice of the Reaper. I think I'll pass on that one for now.

D: Yeah, the Reaper isn't for everyone. For some folks, it can never be spicy enough, but most people can't even finish a single slice. So, if you're not up for a challenge, it's best to steer clear. It's one of those pizzas that really test your heat tolerance.

L: You said you also do gluten-free pizzas?

D: We're really proud of our freshly made dough in general, but yeah, we've got a gluten-free option that's a real crowd-pleaser. Started for a regular customer with an intolerance way back in the day. Now, it's nearly half our pizzas. We're one of the few places in Japan where you can get true gluten-free and vegan pizza options. Our gluten-free dough? It's a rice flour and cauliflower base, and we bake it a bit differently to get that pizza crispiness that everyone loves. And that liquid vegan cheese we're working on? A game-changer. I never wanted to get anywhere near vegan cheese before, but this one's got a great taste to it. You've gotta try it once.

L: Wow, you started the gluten-free option just for one customer? Seems like you put great importance on customer feedback, yeah?

D: It's absolutely invaluable. We're all about the team game here. When trying out new things, we experiment internally first, then listen to feedback from our customers, and refine. More often than not, we get it right first try because after 28 years we understand our guests quite well. And if an idea doesn't work, we're ready to drop it.

Just recently, an Australian lady told us our gluten-free pizza was not only the best gluten-free she'd ever had but possibly the best pizza in general. That kind of praise makes all our efforts worthwhile. And don't get me started on all the comments we're getting on our carrot cake.

L: That carrot cake is out of this world alright. My wife asks me to bring home a slice every time I come here. What's the secret?

D: It's all in the recipe, which we've tweaked to perfection over the years. It's sweet, moist, and most important, we have "big ass slices". We've tried out other things over the years but in the end, people always come back to the carrot cake. We deliver it to some other businesses in the area too, like Streamer Coffee down the road, where they often sell out before noon.

L: What's your usual crowd here, who comes to Pizzakaya?

D: It's a mix, you know? Young, old, families, Japanese, expats, tourists. Probably 50/50, split between Japanese and international customers. They step in here and feel like they've left Japan. Had a couple of Japanese salarymen come in once, looked around, and jokingly asked if they needed a passport to get in. It's all about creating that authentic vibe, not just slapping an American flag on the wall. It takes someone from the region to make it a truly authentic experience.

"It's like stepping out of Japan when you step in here."
Derek Thomas, CEO/President of Pizzakaya

L: Yeah the interior definitely isn't something you see every day. I noticed Music and movies play a role here too. Who is in charge of what's on?

D: (Laughs) Depends on who gets to the playlist first. It's either classic rock if I get there first or hip-hop if my staff beats me to it. And yeah, we've got a thousand movies too and I often just choose the one I am in the mood for on that day.

L: That brings me to the red elephant in the room. What's with these crazy red walls at Pizzakaya?

D: Ah, the red walls. When I first took over, the walls were this salmon color with light blue trim. I remember wondering what on earth the original owner was thinking with those colors (laughs). We decided to switch to red, and I kid you not, business picked up almost overnight. It was like the place underwent a complete energy shift. And thank goodness for that change because, at the time, we were struggling. But since then, we've been doing great.

Pizza, it turns out, is pretty recession-proof. People always crave a good slice, no matter the economic climate. We've weathered a recession, an earthquake with a radiation scare, and then COVID. But now, we're facing a different kind of challenge. The building we're in is set to be torn down, so we're on the hunt for a new location. We're looking for a bigger place and considering opening another branch. It's an exciting, albeit slightly stressful, time for us.

L: Have there been customers that kept coming back despite all those events, basically since the beginning of Pizzakaya?

D: Well, there are, but they are now few and far between. Sadly many of the foreign regulars do end up leaving Japan at one point. But that reminds me of a story that really sticks with me. Years ago, there was this family that used to come here all the time. On their last visit before moving back to their country, their little boy, about 10 years old, was in tears because it was his last time at Pizzakaya. He loved this place so much. Fast forward about a decade, a group of young men in their early 20s walks in, and one of them tells me how he used to come here as a kid and loved it. I shared the story about the little boy who cried on his last visit, and wouldn't you know it, it was him. All grown up now, but that memory of Pizzakaya had stayed with him all these years. It's moments like that, you know, that really show you're doing something right.

L: He came back just in time to be old enough to sample one of the craft beers you have on tap. Tell us about your craft beer selection at Pizzakaya.

D: Oh, yeah. Our craft beer selection is something we're really proud of. We've got a solid lineup of mostly American imports, plus a few local Japanese brews to keep things interesting. We're even looking into creating our own signature brew—a green tea IPA—in collaboration with a local brewery. We usually have about 10 beers on tap, and we like to keep our selection fresh and dynamic, rotating them regularly.

When it comes to sourcing, we have a great relationship with some American importers right here in Japan. This gives us access to some fantastic craft beers that you might not find elsewhere in Tokyo. As for the difference between American and Japanese craft beers, it's quite distinct. American beers are often bold and hoppy, while Japanese craft beers tend to be more refined and subtle, catering to the local palate. But we've found that our customers, both locals and expats, really appreciate the variety.

One of our favorite Japanese craft beers is from ISEKADOYA Brewery. They're not afraid to make some bold choices, and it's paid off—they've won a lot of awards for their brews. And speaking of discovering new beers, I usually head to the craft beer fair in Yokohama to explore and taste what's new. It's a great way to find potential additions to our selection at Pizzakaya. Just last week, I missed the Brewer's Cup, but it's events like that where you can really get a sense of the craft beer scene and what's going on out there.

L: What is your go-to pizza and beer combo, by the way?

D: Ah, the beer one is an easy one. I'm an IPA guy. There's something about the hoppy bitterness of an IPA that just pairs perfectly with pizza. As for the pizza itself, the classic pepperoni is hard to beat. Or the sausage one, we do good sausages here. But personally, I have a soft spot for our pineapple pizza. And yes, I'm one of those people who believes pineapple belongs on pizza. It's a controversial stance, I know, but the combination of sweet and savory just works for me.

L: Did somebody just call about how many slices of carrot cake there are left?

D: Yes. The carrot cake is so popular that people call ahead. (Laughs) They want two or three slices, but we have to ration it. One to two slices, depending on how many we have left.

L: Wow! There you go. This must be the most sought-after carrot cake in the universe (laughs).

L: Another thing I noticed is the posters about a Pizzakaya VIP membership. Something like a monthly subscription service? What's that all about?

D: It's a hit. Members get unbeatable deals, and it's all about building that sense of community. It's been a fantastic addition. The way it works is simple yet effective. For a small sign-up fee (¥2,000) and a monthly fee (¥1,000), members are entitled to a free medium pizza and access to exclusive weekly deals that range from free salads and appetizers to buy-one-get-one-free pizza offers. It's designed to offer incredible value and keep our community engaged and coming back for more. Anyone interested can sign up directly on our website.

L: Last one. When you're not eating pizzas, where do you go to eat around here?

D: (Laughs) Believe it or not, I don't eat pizza every day. But I am American, so I've got a thing for burgers too. Shake Shack is my go-to for something familiar; they do great smashed burgers. But for the real deal, it's Aldebaran. Their cheeseburger is out of this world. They've got this system where they add more bubbling melted cheese in a cast iron pan to your burger when you are halfway through eating. It's become so popular now that you have to call in early or wait for ages to eat there. I used to go there often before they blew up, but now it's such a hassle, I hardly go anymore. They've created demand in an almost artistic way.

L: As a Swiss man, I can never say no to more cheese. Thanks for the tip. I put that on my review list, if I can even get a spot, that is.

L: Derek, it has been a pleasure, thank you for your time today, and now let me get started with one of those ISEKADOYA IPAs and a pepperoni pizza!

Pizzakaya

🌐 Website: pizzakaya.com

📞 Phone: 03-3479-8383

📍 Address: 3-1-19 Nishi Azabu Minato-ku, Tokyo, 2F | Google Maps

Additional Information

• Reservations accepted by phone
• Delivery available

Dinner:
Daily - 17:00-21:30

Lunch
Daily - 11:30-13:45 (No Lunch Saturdays and National Holidays)

Payment Methods:
Cash accepted
Credit Cards Accepted
Electronic money Accepted

Facilities:
Number of seats: 40 Seats
Non-smoking establishment; Smoking possible in front of the entrance

Parking:
No parking on-site (several coin-operated parking lots available in the neighborhood)

Like what you're reading?

Consider signing up for free to stay in the loop or as a supporter to help keep this site running. Alternatively, you could just click the button below to make a one-time contribution to buy us a beer and ensure that we're out there "exploring." Cheers! 🍻